|
Portugal has undergone whirlwind modernization since joining the European
Union in 1986. This is reflected nowhere more dramatically than in the
Portuguese wine industry. Among the innovations were stainless steel
fermentation tanks and small, new oak barrels. For centuries, Portugal has
been recognized for certain regions and wines. Port (or Porto as the
Portuguese call it) was celebrated in the mid-18th. Century. Madeira was the
favorite wine of Colonial America. In 1985 there were 10 demarcated wines
regions; today there are 55. Denominacao de Origem Controlada (DOC) is the
highest rated category reserved for Portugal's 19 top wine regions. The most
famous are Porto, Douro, Dao, Madeira, Moscatel de Setubal, Vinho Verde and
Bairrada.
Madeira is an island in the Atlantic Ocean. It has been under Portuguese
control since 1419. It is a fortified wine using the solera system (see
Sherry/Spain). The estufa method is used; the wine is exposed to high
temperatures in warming ovens for 4 to 5 months. The blending is done with
wines from many vintages. Sercial is the driest, followed by Verdelho and or
Rainwater which are semi-dry. Bual is sweet, followed by Malmsey which is
the fullest and sweetest. Porto or Port is a fortified dessert wine (the
addition of Brandy brings the alcohol level up to about 20 percent. Residual
sugar is left when fermentation is stopped) from the Douro River Valley
region. Half the production in the region is table wine. The same grapes are
used for both Porto and table wines; Tinta Barroca, Tinta Rariz (Tempranillo
in Spain) and Touriga Nacional for red wines and Malvasia Fina for whites.
Dao is in Central Portugal between three mountain ranges that block the
Atlantic Ocean winds and give Dao a Mediterranean climate; 80% of the wines
are red. Moscatel de Setubal sits just South of Lisbon. It is another
dessert wine fortified with Brandy, and made from the Muscat grape. Vinho
Verde, or Green wine (young) is in Northern Portugal. It is a low alcohol,
crisp and fruity wine. Bairrada is in Central Portugal near the Atlantic
Ocean. 60% of the Portuguese sparkling wines are made here.
The River Duoro meets the Atlantic Ocean at the town of Porto The US is
second only to England as consumers of Vintage Porto. Yet this category
constitutes a mere 2% of total Port production. The Porto Wine Institute
must approve the declaration of a vintage. The producer submits samples for
evaluation. If approved the wine must be bottled no sooner than July 1 of
the second year, and no later than June 1 of the third year from the
harvest. It is not unusual for fine vintages to take from 15 to 50 years to
reach their full potential. Because of its slow maturation, a heavy sediment
might require decanting.
Late Bottled Vintage is the name given to a type of vintage Porto that is
ready to drink earlier, costs less and throws little sediment in the bottle.
It is left in cask for four to six years, fined and filtered to cut down or
eliminate the sediment. It is usually ready to drink on release. Colheita
Porto is a single harvest Tawny, and is sometimes referred to as a Porto of
the Vintage or a Reserve with year of harvest designated. There are no
limits to the number of years, beyond seven, that a Colheita can be kept in
cask. A Colheita should not be regarded as a second-rate vintage, but rather
as a first rate Tawny with date. It represents less than ½ of 1% of all
Porto made. Tawny with Indication of Age - Many Porto are blends of several
years, and therefore do not bear a date. There is a special category,
however, that indicates an average age. These are the Tawnies with average
age of 10, 20, 30 and 40 years. The front label must state the age of the
wine and an indication that it was aged in cask, while the year of bottling
must be stated on either the front or back label. Vintage Character Porto,
like Tawny, is blended, but the emphasis is on the fruit and richness rather
then lightness and delicacy. Perhaps the term super-ruby or premium-ruby
would better characterize this category. Ruby Porto is a young, fruity Port
wine; Tawny Porto without age indication is less intensely colored than Ruby
and rarely more than 3 years old. White Porto is made the same way as other
Porto but is made from a white rather than red grape, and little skin
contact is allowed so as to produce a bright, clear wine.
|