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| You Say Albarino, I Say Alvarihno |
August 15, 2000 |
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Speaker: Jonathan Levine, Wine Educator and Co-Director, Tasters Guild
New York
Unknown outside of the Iberian Peninsula ten years ago, today Spanish Albarinos and Portugese Alvarinhos (the same grape-two countries, two languages) are stylish and popular. These wines are high in acidity, crisp, citrusy and chalky and show the flavors of peaches, lime, almonds, apples, melons, apricots and vanilla. Very aromatic when young, the wine will age for 4-7 years. With age they lose any hint of petillance and develop more floral aromas. The wines are medium to full-bodied with a complex nose and flowers. The brisk acidity compares favorably with German rieslings (some think the grape derives from the riesling).
The wines are a particularly good match for seafood but also go well with chicken, light pasta and veal-foods that help mitigate the wine's natural high acidity.
Wines are listed in the order of presentation. Prices listed are retail, full mark-up, in New York City. Notes are Jonathan Levine's.
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| Flight I |
Full Retail $ |
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The Portugese say Alvarinho. Stylistically, the wines from Portugal were crisper, higher in acid and more perfumed than those from Spain. |
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Alvarinho da Aveleda 1999
From the largest producer in the region, the wine is crisp with an aroma and taste of peaches and limes. A bit sweeter than most, with an open and accessible style. Minerals appear in the long finish. A very enjoyable wine. |
$11.50 |
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Morgadio da Torre 1999
Morgadio means family owned estate, or farm. This winery was founded in 1603. A perfumed aroma with a crisp spritz in the mouth. On the palate there are hints of fresh almonds and lemons. |
$11.50 |
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Adega de Monçao 1999
Considered one of the best Portuguese producers of Alvarinho. The aroma of the sea is discernable in the wine's briny scent and finish. The crisp acidity cries out for food. Fuller and more complex than some of the others, with floral and lime notes. The favorite of the Portugese flight. |
$15.00 |
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Portal do Fidalgo 1999
Hand harvested and destemed before fermentation using traditional methods. The wine seems to be encased in a hard shell and will need another year to reach its full potential. The taste shows minerals, melons and pears. Rounder than the others Portugese wines. |
$15.00 |
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| Flight II |
Full Retail $ |
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The Spanish say Albarino. Stylistically, the wines from Spain are rounder, fuller and more complex. |
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Bodegas Martin Codex Burgans 1999
From the same winery as #6 but produced for the U.S. market, rather than domestic consumption. 30% of the wine went through ML and has 4.8 grams of residual sugar per liter. Breezy with a hint of salt air. Ripe fruit in a slightly sweet wine. Light in style with apple notes. The group's third favorite in the Spanish flight. |
$12.50 |
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Bodegas Martin Codex 1999
60% ML and only 1.8 grams of residual sugar per liter. Zesty with fresh tropical fruits of coconut and mint which are animated by the spritz. Another popular wine in a fuller and rounded style. Long finish. |
$15.50 |
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Morgadio Torre Fornelos 1999
Both bottles produced an off aroma of dirty sweat socks. The taste was better than the aroma, but fairly bland. |
$14.75 |
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Morgadio 1999
From the same winery as #7. The difference is the grapes, which come from separate vineyards. The price differential is partially due to different importers. Almond and pear nuances to the nose, with a good body and a well balanced structure. The problem is that there is little taste. |
$21.00 |
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Pablo Padin Segrel 1999
A very nice wine with delicate flavors of apricots and grapefruit. The savory finish is brisk and bracing. Quite lovely and one of my faves. |
$14.75 |
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Pablo Padin Segrel Especial 1999
The "reserve" wine from the preceding winery. In the Especial, only the juice of the first pressing is used, which in Spain is referred to as the Tears of the Grapes. Tied for the group's favorite wine it is well-balanced, round, complex. The nose shows melons and pineapple along with a salty tang. |
$18.50 |
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Bodegas Godeval 1999
Tantalizing crispness, similar to a Muscadet. A nice smokey and slate-like nose. Sweeter taste than some of the others. |
$15.50 |
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Pazo de Senorans 1999
Firm and well-structured with citrus fruits, especially grapefruit and oranges to the nose. Mint and orange also show on the palate. A vibrant finish. |
$17.00 |
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Lusco 1999
Tied with #10 as the group's favorite. Perfumed, with notes of vanilla and oranges. Tart, delicate with a flinty edge and an intense finish.
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$22.00 |
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