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New York City Wine Tasting Club

Beaulieu Vineyards




Beaulieu Vineyeards: California's First Cult Cabernet
Wednesday May 28, 2003

Speaker: Ron Kapon, Wine and spirits journalist

Beaulieu's Georges de Latour (their Private Reserve) was California's first great Cabernet. An extraordinary evening with 20 (that is correct 20) vintages of these vinous treasurers.
Wines: 1966,67,69,1970,71,74,75,76,77,78,79,1980,81,82,83,85,86,87,1990,99.

All wines were purchased at auction.


Flight I: Votes
1967
Mature, light color. More mushroom and less fruit aromas apparent than in the previous vintage, lighter and less rich flavors as well, Sweet fruit flavors. This is an austere wine. 12396 cases produced.
3
1971
Attractive, bright fruit. Little nose, medium aftertaste 17000 cases produced.
12
1974
Cloudy color. The bouquet has a ripe, slightly pruney note. Slight bitterness, a little clumsy and rustic. Somewhat like another hot year, the 1964, in that it has matured faster than anticipated. 29,900 cases.
2
1977
Deep-color. A colder vintage yielded a wine with fresh, gingery yet mineral-cherry bouquet and balanced, if a bit acidic flavors. There is some good sweet cabernet fruit finish and the tannins are well integrated, 22400 cases.
21
1981
Mature. The aromas are rather shy and herbal and lack much sense of fruit intensity. The flavors are slightly oxidized, and lack weight and fruit concentration of the 1980. The short finish and lack of richness lead to a drying finish. A bit tired. Strikeout, 1499 cases.
2
1983
Dead. 23200 cases.

1
Flight II: Votes
1966
Problem with the cork. Stringent. Bitter. Little fruit. 7659 cases.
8
1975
Problem with the cork. Mature. Dark color. Slightly oxidized aromas of stewed or cooked fruit, yet oddly juxtaposed by some green unripe vegetal notes as well. A tough year, all right. 23390 cases.
1
1978
Dark color. Bitter flavor. 23000 CASES.
1
1979
Dark ruby-garnet color. This is a denser wine, with good fruit, less earthiness. The acidity is still quite good, which emphasizes the berryish fruit. It is stylish and balanced. 23000 cases.
10
1982
Medium full ruby-mahogany color. A still youthfully ripe and berry mint bouquet heralds a wine still capable of further development. While there is a touch of acidity, the flavors are firm, minerally and laced with Bordeaux-like cedar and black cherry nuances. There is good fruit in the finish, with fine tannins. A wine of structure and intensity without over ripeness. 24100 cases.
7
1986
The 50th Anniversary vintage of Georges del Latour Cabernet. Medium full, ruby-garnet color. The bouquet is still vigorous, rich, with a touch of cedar and spice. The flavors are rather firm, with sweet cassis and black cherry prevalent. The wine has enough substance to warrant holding for another few years. A lovely wine. 9230 cases.

16
Flight II: Votes
1969
Mature, but still a ruby-garnet color. Complex. Fragrant, perfumed. Ripe, clean and long flavors, with real finesse and weight as well. Good fleshy fruit, yet balance by still-firm tannins. More class and length, if less meaty and powerful, while there is still nice fruit sweetness in the finish, the tannins melting away. 11830 cases.
9
1970
Bright, maturing medium-full ruby-garnet color, but still deep. Ripe, cherry-cassis earthy bouquet. Good acidity and lots of fresh fruit on the palate. Showing good spiciness and concentration. While the tannins are still firm, there is little heat. The 1970 is still showing youthful vitality. Outstanding. 12750 cases.
13
1976
Oxidized, aromas of stewed fruit. 11290 cases.
0
1980
Medium color. Still relatively unevolved and a bit tight, this could use another 3-5 years aging. 22700 cases.
1
1985
Full, ruby-garnet color. A fine bouquet: sweet, ripe, with a fine baked earth, gingery character typical of Rutherford in a fine vintage The flavors show real power and focus, with firming tannins in the finish and lower acidity. It has a long finish. 19600 cases.
4
1987
Medium-full ruby color. Lovely, cedar-mint aromas with hints of warm brick and earth. Fine, rich minerally mint and berry flavors show good richness and real fruit sweetness. The mid-palate is fleshy, with a touch of chocolate leading to some still youthful acidity and tannin that need more time to resolve. 16000 cases.
7
1990
Medium-dark ruby-garnet color. Full, gingery, berry-cassis and mineral bouquet showing good fruit concentration and maturity. Full, sinewy flavors reveal good extract and weight of fruit backed by fine tannins and low acidity. There is a lot of class here, though the structure is evidenced by the firm, slightly dry finish. Needs time. 9825 cases.
7
1999
Nearly opaque black purplish color. Herbaceous nose, forward fruit, ripe black and red fruits, ripe tannins and solid acidity.





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