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| The Spanish Centenarians |
November 7 |
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Speaker: Gerry Dawes, Spanish Wine Authority
An interesting characteristic of the Spanish wine industry is that a large number of well-respected properties have been in the same family for many decades. This tasting focused on those wine properties that have been owned by a single family for at least one hundred years.
Wines are listed in the order of presentation. The 42 attendees was asked to vote for their favorite wine in each flight. One vote was allowed in flights I, II, III and V. Three votes were allowed in flight IV. Prices listed are retail, full mark-up, in New York City. Notes are a combination of the speaker's and Jonathan Levine's.
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| Flight I: Aperitifs |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Freixenet Brut Nature Cava
Cava is the Spanish term for sparkling wine. This one is quite dry with apple and pear notes and a touch of sweet fruit at the finish.
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7 |
$14.00 |
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Hidalgo Manzanilla "La Gitana" Sherry
Ethereal with hints of a briny saltiness. One also detects licorice in the mouth. Lower in alcohol (14.5%) than most Finos, wines from Manzanilla are outselling Finos 2-1 in Spain.
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23 |
$13.00 |
| Flight II: White Wines |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Bodegas Miguel Torres Fransola Sauvignon Blanc, 1999 Cataluña
A lovely grassy herbal aroma. The fresh ripe fruit is quite inviting. The wine dances in the mouth.
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8 |
$24.00 |
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Julián Chivite Colección, 125 Blanco 1999 Navarra
A barrel fermented Chardonnay with a funky nose of new oak and alcohol. There are also some buttery notes in the nose and mouth. Too much oak for my taste.
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7 |
$48.00 |
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Bodegas Miguel Torres Milmanda 1999 Conca de Barberá, Cataluña
Another Chardonnay but here the oak is restrained and there is an excellent balance of fruit and wood. A lean and angular wine in a nice Burgundian style. Long finish.
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11 |
$48.00 |
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R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva 1987
My favorite white. Even with 14 years this is a sensational wine. Complex, excellent acid, with a soft inviting texture and layers of flavor and depth. Haunting flavors.
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15 |
$30.00 |
| Flight III: Catalonia and Navarra |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Bodegas Miguel Torres Gran Muralles 1997 Conca de
Barberá, Cataluña
A blend of five local varieties, the wine is still too young and hard. At this point there is no charm. The wine should develop and will improve with bottle aging.
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3 |
$75.00 |
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Bodegas Miguel Torres Mas La Plana (Black Label) 1997 Penedès, Cataluña
A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon; the wine is quite nice with sweet fruit. A young and pretty wine with lush and round flavors and a long finish.
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10 |
$45.00 |
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Julián Chivite Colección 125 Gran Reserva 1994 Arízano Estate, Navarra
A blend of Cabernet and Tempranillo, the wine is soft and easy drinking. It is quite similar in style to a good Bordeaux. Fleshy without being overblown. Restrained and elegant.
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27 |
$37.00 |
| Flight IV: Rioja |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva 1996 La Rioja
The best value of the event and a super buy. A lovely wine in a soft silky style. Fruity, well balanced, with notes of berries and dried herbs.
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25 |
$17.00 |
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R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva 1994 La Rioja
I am prejudiced as I have always enjoyed this wine. Very elegant, with the typical cigar box aroma from the Tempranillo. Juicy and mouth-watering. Complex with depth and concentration. The high acid makes it a great wine with food.
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12 |
$30.00 |
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Bodegas Faustino Gran Reserva 1994 La Rioja
Dull with earthy notes. Long finish. Not a bad wine, just unexciting.
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3 |
$24.00 |
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Cune Imperial Gran Reserva 1994 La Rioja
A superb Bordeaux style Rioja. Aristocratic, elegant and long lived. Tight and needs some time to fully develop.
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26 |
$26.00 |
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Cune Viña Real Gran Reserva 1994 La Rioja
This is a wine that seems to come into its own after about 15 years. Burgundian style with a velvety texture and earthy notes. The speaker felt that the Cune Imperial is the better of
the two for the first 15 years, and then the Vina Real surpasses it.
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9 |
$26.00 |
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Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva 1994 La Rioja
Tannic bite. Notes of vanilla, cloves and cinnamon. Quite elegant and graceful.
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14 |
$26.00 |
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La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva '904 1990 La Rioja
Quite young even after having been aged for 9 years at the winery. Fruit and oak combine into a supple and lovely tipple. Quite austere and a medium finish.
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22 |
$50.00 |
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Marques De Riscal Reserva "Baron de Chirel" 1995 La
Rioja
Riscal's top-of-the-line wine. Produced in a modern style, this wine contains 50% Cabernet. Not the graceful Rioja of old, but a more in your face wine with sweet Cabernet fruit Vanilla and black cherry notes.
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10 |
$55.00 |
| Flight V: Dessert Sherry |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Osborne Rare Oloroso "Solera India"
Sweet but a salty or sharp edge. Notes of raisins, figs, coffee and bitter oranges. Quite nice.
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21 |
$42.00 |
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Gonzalez Byass Pedro Ximénez Noe
Not the best "PX" Sherry I have tasted but very drinkable. Thick and viscous with aroma of dates, figs, nuts, and orange marmalade.
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17 |
18.00
(375 ml) |
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