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| Cru Bourgeois: Wines of Distinction |
Friday, February 26, 2002
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Speaker: Peter Sichel, Bordeaux Authority and Chateau Owner
In 1932, the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce designated certain Medoc wines, excluded from the 1855 classification, as Cru Bourgeois. Cru Bourgeois are not the aristocratic classified growths, but they are the solid core of fine wines produced in the Medoc The system established three designations: Cru Bourgeois, Cru Grand Bourgeois and Cru Grand Bourgeois, Exceptionel, and clearly defined the parameters and requirements for each. The ratings, which were revised in 1966 and in 1978, are again undergoing change and in 2003 the newest classification will be published. Today several of the Crus are making wines equal or better than some classified growths.
Wines are listed in the order of presentation and are arranged from the youngest to the oldest. The 46 attendees were asked to vote for their three favorite wines in each flight. Prices listed are full retail mark-up. Notes are a combination of the speaker and Jonathan Levine's.
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| Flight I |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
La Croix Bonis 1996 St. Estèphe
This is the Third Label of Phelan-Segur and technically not a Cru Bourgeois. A very pretty and pleasant wine that is pleasant but not great. A delightful cherry aroma, but lacks substance. |
20 |
$9.00 |
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Château Beaumont 1999 Haut Médoc Cru Grand Bourgeois
Bright fruit soft and mature tannins. Plummy and elegant in a well made Cabernet Sauvignon style. A lovely graceful wine with notes of cherries, currants and spice. One glass is not enough. |
21 |
$16.00 |
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Château Coufran 1999 Haut Médoc Cru Grand Bourgeois
Awine with a high (85%) percentage of Merlot in the blend. The aromas are closed in and the wine is soft on the palate. Shows nice fruit and some body but lacks depth. Pleasant and well made but will not last long.
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9 |
$18.00 |
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Château Greysac 1998 Haut Médoc Cru Grand Bourgeois
An aroma of cedar and olives. Fairly light when compared to the others in this section. This is a wine that is accessible when young which may account for its popularity in restaurants. Lacks some concentration. Overproduced? |
13 |
$11.00 |
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Château La Cardonne 1998 Haut Médoc Cru Grand Bourgeois
A warm fruity nose that reflects the high percentage (58%) of Merlot. Considerable substance; it fills the mouth with ripe inviting fruits. A fruit driven young wine that will develop complexity with time. |
17 |
$14.00 |
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Château Larose Trintaudon 1998 Haut Médoc Cru Grand
Bourgeois
The largest producer in the Medoc with over 90,000 cases. The wine shows the fruit of the Merlot (20%), the structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and the smoke/spice of Cabernet Franc (20%). Still young and tannic, the wine shows notes of dried herbs and an acid tail.
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20 |
$11.00 |
| Flight II |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Château Phelan Segur 1998 St. Estèphe Cru Grand
Bourgeois Exceptionel
A wine that is certainly comparable to a Fourth or Fifth growth. Concentrated and loaded with fruit. Great structure, depth and a solid backbone. A Cabernet Sauvignon driven wine that is plummy and long on the palate. Just enjoy it and think of the money you save. |
32 |
$25.00 |
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Château d'Angludet 1998 Margaux Cru Grand Bourgeois
Exceptionel
I have always enjoyed d'Angludet, but this appears hard and unaccessible. Rough and lacking in charm. Ch. d'Angludet is always a slow maturing wine that needs time to soften. There is concentration and fruit, so it may round into the form we expect from this property.
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3 |
$25.00 |
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Château Clarke 1997 Listrac Cru Bourgeois
A pretty wine that is warm and fruity. Round, rich and soft, this is more like a St. Emilion than one from the Medoc, due to the blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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4 |
$22.50 |
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Château Poujeaux, 1997 Moulis, Cru Grand Bourgeois
Exeptionel
Another lovely wine with great taste, aroma and texture. Worthy of a Fifth Growth. There is stylish fruit and elegance that needs 3-4 years to reach its peak.
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22 |
$22.50 |
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Château Potensac 1996 Haut Médoc Cru Grand Bourgeois
Medium color with a rich ripe cherry nose. Owned by the same people that own Leoville Las Cases, the wine has a lot of substance and concentration. Mature and soft, the wine is peaking, but should hold for several years. |
14 |
$20.00 |
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Château Fonréaud 1995 Listrac, Cru Grand Bourgeois
A fully mature wine with dark color and an intense ripe fruit. A bit hot, full and ripe. Drink now. |
13 |
N/A |
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Château Fourcas Hosten 1995 Listrac Cru Bourgeois
Quite dark in color with depth and breadth. Spicy and generous in the mouth. Well integrated and very dense. Notes of leather, olives and coffee. A wine just starting to mature with all of the nuances this entails.
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26 |
$16.00 |
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