|
|
| A Family Affair: Champagnes from Family Owned Houses |
Tuesday December 10, 2002 |
|
Speaker: Ed McCarthy, Author, Champagne For Dummies
Many of the best known Champagne houses are now owned by multi-national conglomerates. Though their numbers seem to shrink monthly, several of the best houses are still family owned and operated. This tasting focused on Champagnes from this dwindling group of grower/ producers and negotiants.
Wines were arranged loosely from light to full-bodied in style and were served in flights of three. In order to provide consistency, only Brut Non Vintages bubblies were sampled. At the speaker's request, no votes were taken. Champagne prices fluctuate quite widely, so an approximate range is given. Notes are a combination of the speaker and Jonathan Levine.
|
|
| Brut NV Champagnes |
Full Retail $ |
Pierre Brigandat Brut Reserve NV
This wine was placed first because the speaker was unfamiliar with it. Quite new to the US, the blend is 90% Pinot Noir, which resulted in a rich and full wine. A heavier style with notes of mushrooms and apples. I really enjoyed it and the price is right. |
$20.00 - $24.00 |
|
Bruno Paillard Brut Premieur NV
A lighter style wine that would be perfect as an aperit -- it is the epitome of the light and elegant style of champagne. Higher in acidity so it pairs well with food, it is dry and has a high percentage of Chardonnay in the blend. From a new company, started in 1984. |
$31.00 - $34.00 |
|
Duval-Leroy Cuvee Paris Brut NV
Duval-Leroy is a large producer but unknown in the US. They produce 6 million bottles a year and market two Brut NV wines. The Cuvee Paris comes in a bottle decorated with a Leroy Nieman etching. Medium bodied and a tad on the sweet side with a lot of charm. 60% chard. and 40% Pinot Noir. |
$24.00 - $29.00 |
|
Laurent-Perrier LP Brut NV
Another large house that produces 6 million bottles a year. A light and elegant style wine that is a bit on the sweet side. |
$27.00 - $29.00 |
|
Louis de Sacy Grand Cru Brut NV
My favorite wine of the tasting. Lemony and citrus aroma and taste with notes of strawberries and hints of warm bread. Sprightly and delicious. |
$33.00 - $35.00 |
|
Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
The group and the speaker liked this better than I did. More acidic and, to me, funky. The speaker felt that the wine was too young and needed a couple of years before it is ready to drink. |
$33.00 - $35.00 |
|
Henriot Souverain Brut NV
Heavier and quite dry. Elegant in style, but with a bitter edge. |
$27.00 - $28.00 |
|
Taittinger La Francaise Brut NV
Another of my favorites. Medium in all respects, but so elegant. Not too light or heavy, not too sweet or dry. A soft wine that is vinified for a large market. |
$24.00 - $30.00 |
|
Pol Roger Brut NV
A dry style wine that is showing a funky nose but a lovely taste. Yeasty with notes of mushrooms and pears to the palate. |
$27.00 - $29.00 |
|
Vilmart Grand Cellier Brut NV
A rich full-bodied wine that is also a bit on the sweet side. The wine is a year or two older than some of the others and is starting to develop complexity. The sweetness comes from ripe grapes, not a higher dosage. |
$35.00 - $40.00 |
|
Alfred Gratien Brut NV
This is one of the few champagnes that is still fermented the traditional way -- in oak barrels. There are lemon and honeyed notes. A bit on the sweet side. Delicious. |
$27.00 - $28.00 |
|
Gosset Grand Reserve Brut NV
One of the top choices in the event. Gosset has two Brut NV champagnes. This one is their top-of-the-line as it is aged for 4 years on lees. It is almost the equivalent of a Tete du Cuvee, but sells for half the price. Great concentration, complexity and depth. Full and toasty with apple and brioche notes. High acid makes it a good wine with food. |
$49.00 - $55.00 |
|
Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV
Another favorite of mine. Full, yet elegant, and almost creamy in the mouth. Citrus notes, very dainty and lots of finesse. You just want to drink more. |
$28.00 - $32.00 |
|
Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut NV
Right now, this is an "in" champagne. Primarily Pinot Noir, is it full, dry and rich. Good body and flavor. |
$28.00 - $32.00 |
|
Bollinger Cuvee Brut NV
A big champagne that is rich and yeasty. The unique yeasty nose comes from extra aging time on the lees. There is good depth and definition.
|
$28.00 - $32.00 |
| Top |
