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| Barbaresco: Italy's Queen of Wines |
Thursday September 19, 2002
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Speaker: Charles Scicolone, Italian Wine Maven, Wine Writer and Beverage Manager, I Trulli Restaurant
The Piedmont located in northeastern Italy is home to two of the world's great wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. Known as the Queen of Wines for its more feminine nature (at least when compared to Barolo) Barbaresco is robust, rich, silky and one of the least appreciated great wines of the world. They have been described as profound and subtle.
Many of the producers have changed from a traditional approach to wine making to one that is more in tune with modern taste and style. This aspect of the wines was examined in the tasting.
Wines are listed in the order of presentation. The 20 attendees were asked to vote for the favoriote wines in each flight. No vote was taken for an overall favorite.
These wines were purchased at auction, so retail prices are not available; prices for current vintages run between $50-$125. Notes are a combination of the speaker's and Ron Kapon's
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| Flight I |
Votes |
1994 Ceretto Bricco
Poor vintage. First of the modernist. Looks much older to the eye. Anise, licorise, herbal tea. Lacks fruit; tannins replace the fruit. Short finish. |
2 |
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1998 Beni di Batasiolo
New style, leather & chewy. Tannins up front with good fruit |
3 |
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1996 Beni di Batasiolo
Lots of fruit, but musty, still not opening up- lots of tannins |
8 |
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1997 Produttori del Barbaresco
Great bargain; made by a wonderful cooperative & traditional producer. Sweet fruit, softer, approachable. Will last for many years
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9 |
| Flight II |
Votes |
1990 Pio Cesare Riserva
Now a modernist, but this wine was made in the traditional way. Faded roses, truffles, typical bouquet, lots of tannin, smoke & tar. Can last for 20 more years |
7 |
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1990 Ovello Riserva Produttori del Barbaresco
A single vineyard from the cooperative. Slightly oxidized. More evolved than the previous wine. Drinking nicely now |
9 |
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1990 Paitin Soir Paitin
His new vintages are all aged in small barrels, but not this wine. Tar, tobacco, softer tannins
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5 |
| Flight III |
Votes |
1989 Produttori del Barbaresco
Earthy, toffee, coffee, musty, browning at the edges. Not showing well. Slightly oxidized |
2 |
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1989 Alberta Contratto
Charles comment that he has not seen this label in the US. Has changed his style to a modernist. Mint, woody, mushrooms. Not alot of tannin |
0 |
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1989 Vietti Rabaja
Was a traditionalist; son now a modernist. Slightly oxidized |
0 |
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1989 Contratto
Has become a modernist. Good color, lots of deep fruit. Best of the 1989. The other 1989's did not show as well as expected
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15 |
| Flight IV |
Votes |
1988 Pora Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva
A singly vineyard. Slightly oxidized, but soft on the palate. Showing well; drink it now |
5 |
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1988 Pio Cesare Riserva
Deepest color of any of the wines; soft, coffee, chocolate, Big wine & well balanced
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15 |
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