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| The Other Nebbiolo |
Monday October 29, 2001 |
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Speaker: Tom Maresca, Wine Journalist and Author
Best known as the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, Nebbiolo also produces a number of lesser known, but not lesser quality, wines. These wines, variously labeled Spanna, Gattinara, Grumello, Valtelina, Nebbiolo, et. al., seldom receive the recognition they deserve. Although they are some of the world's most underrated wines, they offer the same enticing Nebbiolo aromatic complexity and fullness of flavor in a slightly less full-bodied style.
Wines are listed in the order of presentation. The 38 attendees was asked to vote for their favorite wine in each flight. One vote was allowed in each flight. Prices listed are retail, full mark-up, in New York City. Notes are a combination of the speaker's and Jonathan Levine's.
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| Flight I: Nebbiolo d'Alba |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Pio Cesare Nebbiolo d'Alba 1998
An attractive tannic aspect in the mouth. Fairly rich and full with earthy and mushroom notes. Rustic. |
18 |
$18.00 |
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Borgognot Nebbiolo d'Alba 1997
A funky nose that blows off and leaves an aroma of celery and woodsy notes — a fairly typical aroma for this varietal. Decent length and finish. |
11 |
$17.00 |
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Renato Ratti Ochetti 1999
Full and firm in the mouth. Sweet fruit to the nose. Not aggressive but subtle and lingering.
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10 |
$17.00 |
| Flight II: Nebbiolo Blends |
Nervi Amore NV
A non vintage blend of Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc. An aroma of cherries and dried herbs. The best value of the event. Soft, accessible and very drinkable. |
12 |
$9.00 |
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Michele Chiarlo Barilot 1997
The dark color is probably the result of the addition of Berbera and aging in small barrels. Well structured with hints of sweet vanilla from the new oak. |
18 |
$35.00 |
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Vietti Perbacco 1998
Another Nebbiolo and Barbera blend. The nose shows sweet cherries and mint. Hints of dried fruit and forest floor.
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10 |
$19.00 |
| Flight III: Gattinara |
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These wines come from a colder region then the Nebbiolo d'Alba zone. They show less color but greater elegance. |
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Antiche Gattinara 1996
The darkest color of the flight. Mouth filling with an aroma of faded roses and tea leaves. Quite nice but lacks stuffing. |
6 |
$30.00 |
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Sergio Gattinara Gattinara 1996
One of my favorites. Soft, elegant and graceful. A wine that dances in the mouth and begs for another sip. |
11 |
$29.00 |
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Travaglini Gattinara 1996
One of my old standbys. Soft, elegant and drinkable. A welcoming wine with an aroma of rose petals and herbs. I prefer this to the rich Riserva.
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10 |
$25.00 |
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Travaglini Gattinara Riserva 1995
Biggest of the flight. Rich and full with concentrated flavors and a forceful personality.
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12 |
$35.00 |
| Flight IV: Other Piedmont Villages |
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Quite far north, these wines tend to be lean and supple. |
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Dessilani Fara Caramino Riserva 1995
Good color with a bit of an off nose that improves with aeration. The wine also improves in the glass. |
4 |
$23.00 |
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Antiche Ghemme 1996
The taste is better than the nose which seems a bit off. Hints of celery, bell pepper and cedar. The wine improves with some air and the off aromas dissipate. |
10 |
$30.00 |
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Dessilani Ghemme Riserva 1995
A pleasant wine that lacks depth and grace. Easy drinking. |
10 |
$23.00 |
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Bertelli Monferrato Mon Mayor 1997
The best of the flight. The wine is currently not available in the U.S. Bertelli makes a wide range of excellent wines. Lovely supple flavors with a rich mouth feel and long finish.
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14 |
N/A |
| Flight IV: Lombardy Villages |
Nino Negri Grumello, Vigna Sassorosso 1995
Vegetable flavors to the nose and in the mouth. Big and full with a rustic texture. |
14 |
$20.00 |
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Nino Negri Inferno, Mazer 1996
A funky barnyard aroma with notes of dried fruits and old tea leaves. Fleshy in the mouth. |
5 |
$20.00 |
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Rainoldi Inferno, 1995
Quite fruity with an older earthy taste. Notes of leather and mushrooms. |
9 |
$14.00 |
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Nino Negri Sassella, Le Tense 1996
The most prized village in the region. Big ripe fruit with notes of dried herbs. Rustic and charming with a rounded mouth feel. |
9 |
$20.00 |
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Rainoldi Sfursat 1997
Sfursat refers not to a village but a process. The wine is produced using partially dried and raisined grapes, the same method used to produce Amarone. A classic Sfursat with a raisiny aroma and elevated alcohol, perfect for a cold winter's night.
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9 |
$28.00 |
| Flight V: Grappa |
Mazzetti Grappa di Nebbiolo
Slight yellow color from some wood aging. Aromas of sweet fruit, fungi and herbs. Warming and elegant.
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N/A |
$34.00 for
500ml |
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