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Why Cows Are Mad
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| Why Cows Are Mad: A Tasting Of Olive Oils And Olive Products |
Thursday March 21, 2002
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Speaker: Brian Patterson, Brand Manager, Oliviers & Co.
Over the past decade interest in, and sales of, olive oils have increased tremendously. At the same time that there has been a decrease in sales of animal based shortenings; those oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E and phytosterins have experienced a remarkable gain. Whatever the reason, supermarket shelves are groaning with olive oils in various styles from many countries and regions.
Olive oils like wine reflect the terroir (that mystical combination of climate and soil) so the differences between oils are as marked as those between different wines.
All oils tasted are available only at Oliviers & Co., one of New York's leading importers and distributers of olive oils and olive spreads. They approach their olive oils with much the same attitude that a diligent wine importer embraces, that is, a careful selection of growers, and then asking them to harvest their crop and press their oils in ways that focus on quality and individuality rather than on quantity.
The oils--all from the 2001 harvest--are listed in the order of presentation. The 24 attendees were asked to vote for their two favorite oils. Prices listed are full retail mark-up. Notes are a combination of the speaker;s and Kim Ginsberg's. Ms. Ginsberg is a New York City based wine and food consultant.
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| Wine |
Votes |
Full Retail $ |
Alvarez Andalusia, Southern Spain
100% single variety (Hojiblanca) organic olive oil from a 400 year old family estate. Lovely, bright, almost glowing lemon color. Had all the pungent aromas of a sauvignon blanc! Very exotic. A lighter oil, a bit floral tasting with a definite pretty lemon finish. For lighter foods. |
1 |
$28-liter |
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Chateau de Montfrin Gard, Provence, France
From a large (2,000 trees) 17th century estate near Avignon, this oil is made from the Spanish olive Arbequina. The oil is a bit darker than the previous one, but still yellow, full of fresh mowed grasses with a zesty, full-throttle hot-pepper finish! Not for the faint hearted. |
2 |
$28-16.8 oz |
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Eger Farm Galilee, Israel
From a desert orchard near Bethlehem, irrigated only by rainwater. This grower struggles and managed to produce one of the sweetest oils in the tasting. This oil was the first to have a greenish tinge to it, understandably considering the climate, from riper olives. The difference in green olives and black olives is the ripeness of the fruit, not the variety.
A beautiful soft grassy nose with lots of mowed clover. A mild oil with a good nuttiness to it.
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2 |
$29-16.8oz. |
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Moulin de l' Olivette Manosque region, Provence,
France
Olive oil has been made for centuries in this, the hometown of the company. Oils are mostly made from the Aglandau olive. A beautiful, rich golden color, a heavier oil but balanced with herbaceous and sweet flavors. Perfect for bread dipping and salads. |
8 |
$32-16.8oz. |
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Los Ranchos, Uruguay
This enormous estate, now owned by a French woman, and covered with 30 year old Spanish and Italian olive trees, produces world class Mediterranean-style olive oil. Though this oil, which is a blend of Leccino, Manzanilla, and Arbequina olives, has a pronounced grass smell, it is a rounder, softer, simpler oil, reflecting its tropical clime. |
10 |
$29-16.8oz. |
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Mantinea & Avia Kalamata, Greece
This oil is made by a cooperative in the town of Kalamata, but with Koroneiki olives. The confusion ends when you taste the oil which has a deeper but bright green tinge, and a good balance of fruitiness, pepper spice and refreshing acidity -- something I didn't taste in the previous oils. |
6 |
$19-16.8oz. |
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Galiga & Vetrice Chianti, Rufina Tuscany Italy
Despite its claim to fame,Tuscany produces only 3% of the world's olive oil. In fact, Italy is the largest importer of Spanish olive oil! This oil, from the Chianti region offers us an oil, mostly of the Frantoio olive. Like wines from the Rufina region of the Chianti zone, the oil is similarly robust. Dark green vegetables and black pepper notes. |
10 |
$28-16.8oz. |
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Clemente Gargano, Puglia Italy
Not all Italian olive oils are the same. This sample, from the baking heat of Southern Italy, uses Ogliarola, Nostratana and Paranzana olives grown by the family who has been tending the orchard for 200 years. It is the heaviest, "oiliest" or strongest of all the oils, with a lasting burn in the finish. |
1 |
$21-16.8oz. |
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Basil Infused Oil
A fabulous product. So often "flavored" oils are made from Canola oil or poor grade olive oil or just have a sprig of Basil to suggest its flavor. This is the real deal. Pure, fresh basil, no muddy flavors, not heavy, a vibrant condiment oil. |
6 |
$29-16.8oz. |
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Olive Oil Pressed With Lemons
This was amazing! Apparently this process was one of those marvelous "accidents." Once upon a time, as the story goes, Italian olive oil producers in Abruzzi used lemons to clean the presses, and enjoyed the mixture so much they continued to do it. This is not an infusion; the lemons are put into the presses first, then the olives are pressed and all the pulp is centrifuged together, the water drawn off and all the rich oils from both lemons and olives are left! Not just a lemon flavored oil, it has all the pithy-puckering of the actual lemon skin, that mouth-watering tart juiciness just begging for a piece of fish...or finger!
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2 |
$26-16.8oz. |
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