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The Rhone During The 1980s|
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| The Rhone During The 1980s |
Thursday, June 28 |
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Speaker: Harriet Lembeck, Wine Educator and author
Everyone loves the Rhone wines for their structure, depth of flavor and
rustic charms. Rhone wines have been in fashion with the cognoscenti for
hundreds of years, but only lately have they gained the respect from the
general wine drinking public. It is unusual to see older Rhones as they
either have been drunk too early, or hidden away in the deepest recesses of
collectors' cellars. Ms. Lembeck commented on the rarity of the situation
sampling wines that are 15-20 years old because many of the producers have
jumped on the "International-Style" bandwagon resulting in wines that will
not, cannot, develop the flavors and nuances unique to their valley, nor last
as long. Wines are listed in the order of presentation. The 20 attendees
were asked to vote for their three favorite wines in the tasting. Since the
wines were purchased at auction and are currently unavailable, no prices are
listed. Notes are a combination of the speaker and Kim Ginsberg's. Ms.
Ginsberg is a professor of wine education at Fairleigh Dickinson University.
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| Flight I: Vacqueyras |
Votes |
1985 Cuvee des Templiers
One of the newer appellations. Not long before this vintage, this wine would have been labeled Cote-du-Rhone- Villages.' Deep, nice, solid color throughout, though obviously an older wine. Lovely roasted coffee, warm rock
aromas, true to the area. No noticeable tannins left, soft alcohol, sweet fruit and mellow wood, all held together with good, high acidity
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2 |
| Flight II: Chateauneuf
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1985 Girard Cuvee du Belvedere, La Boucou
A wine from the oldest, and probably most well-known Rhone appellation More orange hue here than in the Vacqueyras. The nose is fainter and the alcohol more noticeable. Nice concentrated fruits, red fruits, warm plums. Not a lot of tannins, hangs together well
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5 |
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1983 Ch. La Nerthe
A more problematical vintage. Murky, orange brick color. Smelled oxidized. Seemed tannic, but tasted much better than it looked |
0 |
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1981 Brunier Vieux Telegraphe
From a strong vintage, and made by someone who cares about tradition, using old method of whole-cluster fermentation. Pretty color, actual ruby garnet glowing through. Faint nose, but with lovely, unmistakable tea aromas. Soft, rounded, graceful wine with a long finish that you just want to taste again and again. Sweet fruit. 10 1978 Arnaud-Daumen Vieille Julienne Cloudy, muddied appearance, in my glass. Sour smell, maderized, over-roasted, that dried orange peel aroma. Tastes better than expected, and redolent of the Rhone! Has
some tannins, that funky wet animal hair quality, weird chlorine taste and a dash of salt! Still well-knit wine.
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3 |
| Flight III: Cornas |
1985 Clape
A declared appellation since 1938. 100% Syrah. Deep, dense, strong, solid syrah color. Lovely aroma of old worn, warm leather and here the black pepper is unmistakable. All the parts are there, together, no sharp edges in the
mouth |
10 |
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1983 Delas Chante-Pedrix
Looks dank in my glass, ugly, a lot of silt, clear rim. Again, not from a strong vintage. Smells vegetal, rotten vegetables. Although the wine has that drying out flavor, and is coming apart a bit, it still has those Rhoney roasted flavors and definite black olives
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0 |
| Flight IV: Cote Rotie |
1986 Burgaud (Cote Rotie)
The youngest wine of the evening from an appellation designated in 1940. Dark blue-black color, quite purply. Smells like raspberry jam and dried flowers. Taste does not disappoint, good solid jammy fruit which lingers on |
10 |
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1983 Guigal Brune et Blonde
Burnt caramel, coffee colored wine. Heavy nose, smokey, roasted, obvious with heavy oak. Rotten vegetal flavors, I guess true to the vintage. Disjointed wine with oak, alcohol and vegetal notes
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10 |
| Top |
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